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“Do I need a new roof?”
Roof damage is occasionally obvious, such as after a major weather event where you actually lose roofing material and can see it in your yard. Other times, only a rooftop inspection will reveal roof damage. Leaks are not the only indication for needing a new roof. If you do wait until you start seeing leaks, the damage might not be only to the roof.
Check your roof regularly for the following:

  • Torn or missing shingles – Damaged shingles expose the roof to water and can cause rot.
    Rusted or missing flashing – Flashing is the metal that surrounds chimneys, skylights and vent pipes. It is also often found in the valleys of the roof where the roof sections meet. If it is rusted, damaged or missing, it could cause leaks.
  • Gutters – Check gutters for damage or decay.
  • Problems on interior walls – Look for discolored drywall or cracked paint indoors. This could be a sign of a leaking roof.

“How much will it cost to replace my roof?”
The cost of replacing your roof will vary based on several factors such as square footage, pitch of the roof, accessibility, type of roofing material (metal, shingle, etc.), the number of floors, the height of the roof, the cost of the removal and disposal of your old roof and the cost of the roof permit in your area. We would be happy to evaluate your roof and give you a free, no-obligation quote. &nbsp:

“How should I maintain my roof?”
Since your roof is constantly exposed to the Florida elements, most damage results from weather and pollutants in the atmosphere. To save on repair costs or even having to replace your roof before it is due, you should check your roof a couple times a year. Look for mildew, rust, trapped water and damage. If any damage is noticed have it repaired as soon as you can so it does turn into a larger repair. Also, be sure to keep your roof clean. Remove any debris, such as leaves and branches, that may accumulate on it and clean out the roof gutters regularly. &nbsp:

“How can I remove mold and mildew from my roof?”
Use a hand-held sprayer to apply a solution of chlorine bleach and water or mild detergent and then rinse thoroughly with water. Never use a power washer or high concentrations of bleach, and never scrub the shingle surface. The Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association also offers cleaning recommendations.  



“Do I have enough insulation?”
Whatever type of insulation you have in your attic, a quick way to check is to look across the span of your attic. Is your insulation level with or just below your floor joists (i.e., you can easily see your joists)? If the answer is yes, you need more. If you can’t see the floor joists because the insulation is piled above them, you probably have enough and adding more may not be needed. Make sure that the insulation is evenly distributed with no low areas. There could be enough insulation in the middle of the attic and very little along the eaves, as an example. If your attic insulation covers your joists and is distributed evenly, you probably have enough. For professional evaluation, call Senez for a free survey and quote.  

“How much insulation do I need?”
The effectiveness of your insulation is measured by R-Value. R-Value is a measure of insulation’s ability to resist heat transfer. The higher the R-Value, the greater the thermal performance of the insulation. We recommend that you insulate to R-38 for most attics or about 10 to 14 inches deep, depending on insulation type.  

“What type of insulation material is best?”
When adding additional insulation, you don’t have to use the same type of insulation material that you currently have in your attic. Loose fill can be added on top of fiberglass batts or blankets and vice-versa. If you use fiberglass over loose fill, make sure the fiberglass batt has no paper or foil backing. The fiberglass insulation needs to be “unfaced”. If you choose to add loose fill, it is wise to hire a professional, as the proper application requires the use of a blowing machine. For more details, talk to a Senez professional.  



“Will the skylights work on a cloudy day?”
Yes, all available light will be collected and transferred by your skylights.  

“Will the skylight withstand severe weather?”
The rugged construction of Natural Light Skylights are capable of resisting the harshest weather conditions including hurricanes. The dome and flashing are the only exposed components on your roof. Composed of thick heavy-duty acrylic, the dome can withstand the impact of windblown debris. The flashing is manufactured using commercial-grade seamless aluminum and does not leak. The Natural Light Skylight has been tested and approved by the Hurricane Testing Laboratory. The skylight is also Florida Building Code approved and ICC-ES listed.  

“Can I turn off the light from my skylight?”
We can install a dimmer kit in the 10″and 13″ residential models and in the 21″ commercial model. The dimmer is perfect for any room that you want to darken during the day including bedrooms, media and conference rooms. The dimmer is installed inside the skylight and is operated from a handy remote control.  

Solar attic fans


“My attic has vents. Do I really need an attic fan?”
Our building codes require all homes to have passive attic vents. However, passive vents do not push the hot, moist air out the vents. A motorized attic fan encourages air circulation that cools your attic.  

“Does the attic fan meet hurricane and building code?”
Yes, our attic fans meet Florida Building Codes.  

“How much area will one attic fan cover?”
Many factors determine the coverage area. Roof pitch, roof orientation, tube length and exterior shading are all factors to consider. A Senez professional would be happy to give you a free evaluation.

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